Wednesday, December 23, 2009

PARIS

Paris in 2 ½ days? Possibly the worst idea ever, but Nick and I just did it.

Musee d'Orsay, Moulin Rouge, Montmartre & Sacre Coeur, Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, St. Michel, Notre Dame, Hotel de Ville, Place de Vosges, Mosque de Paris..

..yep, we did all that.


First thing's first: I took Nick to L'As du Falafel for the best damn 5 euro falafel in the world. Unfortunately now that I'm allergic to sesame I had to settle for the greasy kebab meat instead. Still good, though, and Nick can't wait to go back.

After our visit to the gothic Notre Dame, Nick decided that cathedrals are his favorite part of Europe. Doesn't hurt that there's a different huge, old, impressive church on practically every corner in Paris.

I thought it would be a great first introduction to Paris on Monday night for Nick to stroll through the lovely Tuileries gardens from the Louvre to the Champs Elysees. The fact that it was pitch-black outside and we were trudging through slush leftover from the snow may have hindered my original idea, but it didn't much matter. We were in Paris.

After tearing up a little at the ghastly difference between the quaint, adorable looking hotel I saw on the internet and the worn, cracking structure with gaggable violet walls that was our actual hostel...we decided to give Paris our best shot, fill up on chocolate-nutella-banana crepes, and ignore the fatigue from trying to see four cities in three weeks that had crept up on us.

Yesterday, we found out the Louvre was closed on Mondays, so we contemplated impressionism instead at the Musee d'Orsay.

Today, we showed up at the Picasso Museum, where we found out that it's under construction—until 2012. So we headed to the Mosque of Paris, a beautiful mosaic-tiled structure with the story of France's immigrant people within its walls. Of course, we missed the afternoon tour by 5 minutes and they wouldn't let us in past the courtyard. So we went back to the Louvre.

That's the thing about Paris—when one thing's closed, there's always something else to do. Too much to do, in fact.

After four hours within the beige marble walls of the Louvre, Nick and I had had enough. Dusk had fallen on the Greek statues in the skylight-ceiling room and if we had to walk one more stretch of museum exhibit we were going to vomit. So we hit up one last thing—the ancient-Turkish-clothing-exhibit. Because when you're in Paris for 2 ½ days and you're absolutely fed up and just want to keel over and die, you keep going and see one more thing. Because it's Paris.

...*Special thanks to my host family in Paris for having Nick & I for dinner last night. As usual, there was lots of delicious food, more than five different types of alcohol to taste test, and the constant clutter of conversation and laughter and music that makes the Palayrets so special. Merci beaucoup! Vous me manquez déjà!

Now for England....if we make it through the snow delays!

Sunday, December 20, 2009

BaRcElOnA

Day 1 of Barcelona:

Nicolas & I finally make it to the Garden House Hostel after waiting for a 2-hour flight delay because the French don't know what to do with a bit of snow on the runways.

Our first food venture includes a confusion over the menu--we end up paying and leaving after the first course because we think it's the only one. That was damn good stew.

Later, we wander unknowingly into a Hadyn classical concert practice in a huge old church (there's a lot of those in Europe) in the Gothic Quarter, 800-year-old stones above our heads. We wait until 8 p.m. to eat a "late" dinner of tapas and fresh sangria--but nobody's even out to dinner yet, so we have the blonde, bored waitress to ourselves. We finish off the night with a half hour of classical guitar, Castillian singing and flamenco--Nick's favorite so far. And this is only day one!

Day 2 Barcelona:

We wander Park Guell and the grounds of the Sagrada Familia, two of the most beautiful and unique architectural masterpieces of Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926). The Sagrada Familia is still under construction and is expected to be finished in 2040. It reminds me of big upside-down waffle cones melting...breathtaking in its beauty and strangeness...

We gorge on chocolate con churros, one of Spain's best creations (churros dipped in cups of warm liquid chocolate during siesta time, in between lunch and dinner). Hellluv good.

Nick continues to fall off curbs while gaping at the beauty of Spain around him.

Day 3 Barcelona:

We meet up with a Spaniard (friend of Nick's) for breakfast, gaze in awe at Casa Batllo and Casa Mila/La Pedrera, two elven houses created by the genius of Gaudi.

We happen upon a couple hundred locals in a park dancing the sardanes, a traditional Catalonian routine. A few blocks north, we happen upon fifty locals swing dancing in the middle of a boulevard. Why? Because it's Spain.

We down more chocolate con churros. I get a stomachache, which is reconciled by a stop at a local clothing store, where Nick buys me Argentinian clothing for Christmas :)

...

... Anyone know where I can learn Spanish in Lyon? ... I think I'm just going to stay here...

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Next Up: Barcelona, Paris, London

'Been spending a chilly but lovely week here in Lyon with Nick, watching deer prance in the park, being the only people to ride the huge ferris wheel at 1:30 p.m., and freezing our buns off at the Olympique Lyonnais vs. Bordeaux soccer game :)

Tomorrow's adventure? Barcelona. Then we're off to Paris & London to meet up with Nick's family for the holidays!

Bonnes Fetes (Happy Holidays) everyone! Eat some pumpkin pie and peanut butter for me.

Over and out.


(Video: Snow outside my classroom window in Givors. Yes, I took video of tiny snow flurries. Yes, I'm from California).

Thursday, December 10, 2009

California Wonderland

"Is California really like the movies?" My new group of students look up at me expectantly, stars in their dreamy eyes, eyes of teenagers who have not yet seen the world outside of Givors, France.

What can I say? I've just told them that I'm from California, and to them, it's like I walked straight out of a golden wonderland where surfers and bikini models rule the beautiful city streets (which is true--in Newport Beach--but what they don't know is that there are normal people and places in California, too--like Fullerton and Santa Clara).

In the movies, you say? What does this even mean? Palm trees and movie stars and perfect bodies, most likely. "Do you always see movie stars when you walk around in the streets?" I get this question a lot. As much as I would like to say, "Yes! Of course. It's the California way, you see," I realize that I am their first real live representation from this famous state and I better set things straight from the start.

(photos: with images like these, how can I convince my students that California is a normal place, and American high school is not just a song and dance?)

So, "Yes, parts of California are like the movies, but the movies are exaggerated. There are so many parts of California, that it's really like anywhere else. Do you know it takes 14 hours to drive from the bottom to the top of the state? [big eyes from the students] And no, I don't surf, and no, I've never met a movie star."

Another problem is these kids' idea of American high school. Their closest encounter with it is the loathable High School Musical. Thanks to this seductrice of stereotypes, I now have to explain to my students that American high schoolers do not break out into song on every occasion.

What cracks me up is, I could lie through my teeth, make up a whole new American, California Wonderland for these students, and they would believe me. I could tell them that I had lunch with Britney Spears on center court of the Staples Center, followed by a song-and-dance number to celebrate our dessert, and I'd get away with it. Which is why it's a good thing I'm honest. For the most part. ;)

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Fete des Lumieres & Togas

Yesterday was the first day of the Fete des Lumieres, the famous light festival in my city of Lyon.

After a short bike ride through the Park de la Tete D'Or on the Velo'V bikes for the first time (1 euro rental for the day!)...


...Meg & I headed downtown, where at Place Bellecour, the Ferris Wheel beckoned us to ride its golden spokes...

...so, we did.

Afterward, we gorged on vin chaud (hot cider wine) and kebab sandwiches dripping with grease (which my brown boots managed to soak up without deliberation of their future ruined state).

Pushing through the thousands-strong crowd in the middle of downtown, we happened upon acrobats with death wishes, a church with its entire facade turned into a giant projection screen, and fire dancers performing along the river Saone...

















Everywhere, candles were lit in windows, lights were hung in the streets.
Bands played in costume

while passersby crowded around with their plastic cups of vin chaud and nutella-drizzled waffles in a carnival atmosphere of uproarious fun and carefree community.




The entire city, transformed into a festival fairytale, bringing out the kid in each black-adorned Frenchie.

..."So, this is Lyon?" I think. "I think I'm in love."

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Welcome Foreigners!





A nice French lady and a sticker man. Check out Meg's post on our random adventure of the day on her blog, Meg.En.France (click!).

(photo: our mailbox)

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Brrr

I've officially brought out my big jacket for the cold season in Lyon. Hello, December. =O

Weather in Givors today: 2 C, 35 F

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Wine Dream Tour


Check out the photos!

Today, after celebrating two Thanksgivings and drinking a lot of wine, Meg & I woke up early to train it over to Villefranche, where we met up with Adan to drink some more wine...but this time, in the vineyards.

Gil, an English teacher-turned tour guide (he teaches at Adan's school), drove us around from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. in the Burgundy & Beaujolais regions to see the beautiful vineyards and go wine tasting. Meg and I were expecting a brief jaunt to the town of Cluny and a stopover in the Beaujolais on the way home...what we got was better than we could've guessed.

10 a.m. Saint-Gengoux, 2 hours north of Lyon. Gil takes us to winery #1. We taste 5 varieties of wine. Gil smiles giddily like a little boy while he piles one, two, three, four cartons of wine into "the boot of the car" for his family. Megan and I follow suit, purchasing a 2006 Givry 1er Cru Clos Jus (white) and a 2006 Montagny 1er Cru Les Chaniots (red), both from Bourgogne--our first "special occasion wine" to put aside on our nonexistent wine rack.

11:30ish a.m. (time starts to get fuzzy) Gil, Adan, Megan & I eat lunch at a little bistro in the quaint town of Cluny, where sits the ruins of the largest Abbey there ever was...built from 909-1130. nuts.

Afternoon time. Gil drives us through beautiful vineyards, winding through charming French villages with chateaux in the distance. We stop at a chateau, check out the view from Roche de Solutré (ex-French president Francois Mitterand's favorite nature hang-out), hit up another winery--this time, for some Beaujolais.

(photo: Roche de Solutre)

Later. Back in the car, Gil's French voice is smooth but strong, like his broken-in leather jacket. The hum of his Volkswagen lulls me to sleep, I jolt awake when the car stops--at yet another winery.

Sometime later. We hit up one more winery, where we have 1 euro glasses of wine. I love France.

Thank you, Gil, for the best wine tour, ever. C'est la meilleur tour que j'ai jamais fait. :D

I can't believe he actually lives in this region. When I get old and retire, I'm movin' wine country, so I can become an expert du vin and take mesmerized foreign youngsters on tours.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Buy Nothing Day



Buy Everything Day: November 27th. Buy Nothing Day: November 28th.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Two Thanksgivings

This week, I'm celebrating two Thankgsivings. Because when you're an American expat in France, you get to celebrate American holidays more than once. Gravy.



Friday, November 20, 2009

Fitting In


As you can see, my room looks a little more lived-in now (if you wanna make it up on my "closet door of fame," send me pictures).



It's November 20th, and things are starting to fit in.

This week, the night after the random volleyball practice, Megan & I went to dinner with an adorable French couple we met at the laundromat. How filmesque is that? The restaurant was called Le Tibouren, and the chef himself came out to dictate us the menu--in French and English :) New tastes of the evening included pink soup and shark. Delicieuse.

In four days, I will have been here 2 months. What've I learned? Let's see...
  1. Subway in France is way better than Subway in America (fresher ingredients).
  2. If I plan everything to the minute, I can make it from home to school in 1 hour, 5 min (that includes walking, metro, train and bus).
  3. The French love their grocery stores (especially on the weekends, when excited employees announce samples and sales on their bullhorns while standing on boxes).
  4. Though they usually act like we have some incurable disease, the French are actually interested in meeting foreigners (interestingly enough, they can't contract the one disease we do have: homesickness--which, btw, can be cured by a glass of wine and a season of downloaded American television).
  5. Lyon has its warm winter days, too (today its 68 F--woah!).

...more conclusions to come, I'm sure...

Monday, November 16, 2009

French Volleyball


Jeremy: "How is French volleyball different from American volleyball?"

Me: "It's the same, except for you can't understand what they're saying."

Picture this: Old-school gym. 6 sweaty French men. 1 tomboy French woman. Two months into the season. Ear-slapping spikes, serves, and hits. Lots of French.

Add two timid foreigners (an American and a Canadian), whose level of French is almost as bad as their level of volleyball, and you've got tonight's adventure in a nutshell :D

The start of our rendez-vous with the "beginning level intramural" French team in Villeurbanne was so awkward you could bounce a volleyball off the tension in the air. Megan and I kept giving each other big eyes and mouthing, "This is so awkward!" But we stayed, determined to do what we had come for: to play volleyball.

Eric, the player/coach with tight shorts and a beer gut, made us warm up with the most logical drill possible: slamming a ball into the ground as hard a possible. "To work out the arms," he said (in French, of course. This was about the extent of my comprehension for the night).

Okay. Jogging warm-up, ball-slamming, volley-bump passing, spiking, serving done. It's time for an hour-long game. I've never played so much volleyball in my life. Luckily, I had played volleyball before in my life, so I could pretend like I knew what I was doing.

The whole game, the only thing I could understand was "Out!" The rest of the time, I'd smile and nod, occasionally looking over to Megan and laughing at the realization that we were two foreigners, with a bunch of random French people in a gym, playing volleyball. It was awesome.

We managed to get outta there uninjured, minus some sore arms and dampened egos...but it was totally worth it. Who wouldn't want a chance to hang out with some Frenchmen in their 30s who've never heard of deodorant?

New Post, Chez "Undecided"


"First she made a decision. Then she wondered what on earth she was thinking when she made it. Now she’s living the life — and learning to love the unpredictability of it all. In today’s guest post, a newly minted college grad — who teaches English to French teenagers, fights off the advances of train conductors, and like the rest of us, is petrified of growing up — muses about how the reality of the adult life has suddenly crept up behind her and taken her by surprise. Baguette in hand, she stands ready to battle it back into oblivion..."

Read more about my guest post, "La Vie est Belle," on my journalism's professor's blog, Barbara Kelley's "Undecided," here!


Saturday, November 14, 2009

I think I know

It's a gloomy, windy day in Lyon today. The weather is strangely warm, however, and it's still holding out for the rain. It feels as if everything's waiting for something. It's November 14th, the end of fall and the beginning of winter, and yet the sky cannot decide which to be. I cannot decide which to be: homesick, or happy to be in my new home. I am happy to be experiencing such a crazy life change, because after all, who ever gets to do this?

It all kind of happened randomly, I feel, this move to Lyon. I applied four months too late, and they still accepted me. I couldn't get any other job back in the States. Nick still had a year of university left, but I wasn't about to stay in Santa Clara, CA, anyway. So I just went. And now I'm here.

Sure, I've second-guessed coming, as it's been a helluva stresser. But, I know it'll be worth it in the long run. Don't ask me how, I just know. Or at least, I think I know.

Friday, November 13, 2009

Realizations


Today, I finally grasped how, despite the expenses and difficulties of living in France, despite the endless paperwork and homesickness and lack of French and the unappreciative high school students--despite all this, living in Lyon, France, for 7 months really is a truly wonderful, beautiful, crazily fantastic dream that I've been living...for 7 weeks now.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Dancin'


Meg & I went to see Mikhail Baryshnikov, one of the best ballet dancers of all time (he's 61 and still amazing) perform at the Opera de Lyon tonight :)


..After the show, we did a little dancin' ourselves...

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

South of France, Monaco, & Geneva!

Hello friends. I've returned from my first of four 2-week vacations that the French school system so generously offers :D

Instead of boring you with excruciating jealousy-invoking details of our beautiful summer-like five days in the south of France, a day in Monaco, and our random adventure to Geneva, I'll let the pictures do most of the work.

Let's start with Marseille. Click here to see photos of Marseille. You'll see the view from the Hotel St. Louis (where we somehow managed to get two rooms for the price of one, including the honeymoon suite); then, you'll see photos of the Vieux Port (old port) of Marseille; the view from Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde; inside the basilica; and, a random carnival with a large cathedral backdrop. Only in France.



Next, check out the photos from Cassis, Les Calanques. Cassis, a small fishing port just east of Marseille, has Beauty-and-the-Beast charm and some fantastic port-side cafes; from here, we took a boat out to tour Les Calanques, where hundreds-of-feet-high white limestone cliffs tower over transparent turquoise water. Paradise? Yes. Just see the pictures.


After a day in Marseille & a day in Cassis, we spent Wednesday morning touring Chateau D'If, the island which provides the setting for The Count of Montre Cristo by Alexandre Dumas. It's old. and rocky. and prison-like. Not a place I'd want to go more than once, but it has great views of the port of Marseille, so again, check out les photos :)


Wednesday afternoon, we trained it over to Nice, where we ended up staying in the #1 hostel in all of France for 2009: Villa St. Exupery. Clearly the best hostel I've ever stayed in, its large lounge, bar, and kitchen area served well to the several young travelers staying there. For 6.50 euros, we feasted on gourmet coucous & lamb, or chicken & potatoes, or for 5.50 euros, gourmet pizza. And for 1 euro? A beer, or a glass of wine. You can't beat that.

At the villa, we met Jillian, a Bostonian from Coolidge Corner (where I lived this past summer) who was on week 5 backpacking Europe, set to return home the following week from Geneva, Switzerland. We also met Andrew, a Texan with an indefinite plan for a return to the states. With these two added to our group of three (Megan, Isabelle, & I), we were five, and we were ready to explore Nice. If only I hadn't worn my patent leather shoes.


The next day, after I bought some awful Birkenstock-imitation sandals (the only shoes in France that'll fit my feet), we took a 20 min train to Monaco, home of the famous Monte Carlo Casino, really ridiculously expensive yachts, and apparently, a sweet cactus. It was so nice, I almost moved in that very day (almost).



As you might have guessed, our trip to Geneva happened thanks to Jillian, our newfound favorite traveling companion. Her enthusiasm kept me going when my newly acquired head cold coaxed me to stay curled up under my covers. Another clean and quiet city (like Monaco, but with a lake instead of a beach and the UN instead of a casino), I really liked how we could sit in a cafe and hear German, Italian, French, and English conversations going on around us all at the same time.

The vacation ended just in time for my head cold to force me to stay in bed and our Internet, TV, AND phone to cut out (until next Tuesday night, when the French technician can so efficiently come over to fix it). Go France. Woo.

--Check out my roommate's blog, too! www.megenfrance.blogspot.com (she has more details on the trip).

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Mike & Steve's Visit

Parc de La Tete D'Or



















This park never fails to surprise me. Today, after the capuchin monkeys and endangered jaguars, we found the lake--with some of the clearest water I've ever seen (is it real? who knows). It has acres of gardens and fields; no park even in Paris can compare.

The seasons are changing here in Lyon. Leaves on trees are turning golden, rain threatens the sky daily, but today was surprisingly warm :)

Mike Ridley & his friend Steve came to visit for a few days, so we thought we'd give them a taste of Lyon. But, they took the taste factor to the extreme.

Above, you can see a picture of the aftermath of what they ordered, a traditional Lyonnais dish: andouilles. In English? Tripe, in mustard sauce. (that's stomach intestines)
Scene: Mike & Steve stuff in a forkful each, mouths watering in anticipation of their first veritable Lyonnais meal. Immediately, they wince, slightly convulse, and gulp some water to swallow it down. Being the proper gentleman that they are, they smile and say, "This is...very strong." It was a memorable meal, at least.

Luckily, Megan's friend Isabel is here to save our tastebuds and cook us some delicious traditional (traditional this time meaning delicious), like poulet a la creme.

--Isabel just introduced her parents to us on Skype--us, including Mike and Steve. Ha. Both of them held the laptop like it was a baby who just made a mess.

Game time.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

So Tired

First week of actual teaching has come to an end, and I am sooo tired. But, we have a 10-day vacation now! ( I know, already ). So, Megan & I will be heading to the south of France! woop.

Mike Ridley comes to visit tomorrow. Yay! Hopefully I'll finally have time to catch up with friends & family, this weekend, too.

Who knew that I've already been here a month? Ridiculous.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Forecast


Windy tonight on the homefront. Rain Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday.

Sunshine today in the classroom. Smiles, new expressions, and confidence. :)


Sunday, October 18, 2009

Inestimable

One trip to Auchan: lots of euros.

One trip to Ikea: lots of more euros.

Two bus rides with bags and bags to heave home: a few euros.

The chance to make our sterile apartment une maison francaise: priceless.





Friday, October 16, 2009

Notre Appartement


Megan & I have moved in! Check out our first french "dejeuner" (lunch), above. We recently purchased a bottle of seasoning that makes everything taste French--parfait!

As you can see, our balcony is petite, but cute, eh? Check out more photos of our apartment here.

On Monday, I officially begin my first day of teaching. On Friday, we officially begin our first (10-day) school vacation, Toussaint. Sucré. 'Considering heading down to the south of France: Montpellier, Marseilles, Nice, maybe even cross over the border to Monaco. It's not hard to do.

France is treating us well. It's been in the 30s and 40s, but bright sunshine all day, every day (though I see some clouds moving in right now). We found the cheap French Walmart, called Auchan, where we got all our kitchen towels and candles and home comforts. We've so far succeeded at speaking French together about 1/2 the time, and then English about 3/4 of the time. Only one bag remains unpacked on my tile floor. Tomorrow we go to Ikea to get throw rugs and then maybe catch a French flick at the film festival in Lyon. I've tried to get a French cell phone six times now, and our land line isn't working yet. Yesterday, we put up a friend of a friend though we had just moved in 20 hours before. We finally figured out how to turn the hot water on. And I now am in possession of a pillow. C'est la vie francaise!

Sunday, October 11, 2009

A Day on the Rhone

Most beautiful day in Lyon, ever (and according to the weather forecast, the last for forever).











Me w/ my future roomie (starting Wednesday), Megan, sitting beside the Rhone River, watching mini shaggy dogs with big heads and rollerbladers with too much padding.


...And, the amazing Ethiopian meal that my host, Jackie, cooked for Megan & I last night! A feast to be sure, and the best lentils I have ever tasted.



Update: One more week of observation at the high school, and then I start teaching! This Wednesday, I move to my new dwelling--my OWN dwelling--where I should finally be able to write a more informative post. Thanks for readin' up!

-Mags

Saturday, October 10, 2009

The French "Taco"



Ingredients: creme fraiche, steak, nacho cheese, barbecue sauce, tomatoes, french fries. Awesome.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Here is my day

Here is a lion, one of many in the city of Lyon. It seems to be a symbol of the city, so it's fitting that I happen to be a Leo.


Here is a view of the city itself, which I hiked to from that bridge you see there.

And here is the cathedral Fourviere, which is on top of the hill, with the view.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Oh, this is where I left it

I found my heart in Vieux Lyon today.

Vieux Lyon, or "Old Lyon," is one of the biggest and best-preserved Renaissance quarters in Europe. Its tiny, winding cobblestone streets are now home to various shops of Indian textiles, handmade jewelry, and Salons de thé, which feature hot beverages and sweet treats.

I was feeling rather homesick today (I think I'm picking up these common British words, like "rather," from my British host, who says "throw a wobbler" instead of "throw a fit") as I dashed from the grimy Givors Canal train station to Perrache, another ugly modern train station that can boast no French charm to speak of--a sad disappointment to new travelers.

But all I needed was a simple crossing of the river with Megan to discover what I was really hoping to find in Lyon. Just over the Saone River from the presqu'ile ("almost island/peninsula") is Vieux Lyon, a neighborhood which reminds me a bit of Barcelona and Florence combined, with a non-Parisian, au naturel French twist. It's exciting and quaint and exactly what I needed to see to take the homesickness away. Here, I fell in love.

Right. I don't feel like saying much more. Check out the pictures, then.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Champagne & Rocking Chairs

The town of Vienne sits on the Rhone River, a Mediterranean-esque town in a lush green valley where ruined chateaux on the foothills overlook the contemporary world like wrinkled grandmothers in rocking chairs, silently observing modern life with nostalgic grace and quiet disapproval.

This was my weekend placement. I stayed with Lydia, another wonderful English teacher from the lycée with two of the cutest little French kids on the planet & a knack for good cooking.

After my exhausting Saturday morning, a traditional French dinner was very much appreciated. FIVE hours later, I had consumed apéritifs (appetizers), champagne, salad, smoked salmon, wine, full shrimp (yes, Carrie, this time you could see the whole body--I had to pull off the legs and head, complete with eyes--I squirmed, but I ate), pork cooked with pineapple, au gratin potatoes, bread, cheese, and une tranche of chocolate tarte. By 12:15 a.m., my head was spinning with too much French and my stomach was about ready to kill me. But oh--it was worth it!

I passed out, feeling like those old French kings with the huge stomachs about ready to burst their suitcoat buttons, on the pull-out futon that every French household seems to have for potential guests. It was perhaps the best sleep of my stay thus far.

Today's petit voyage to the flea market gave meaning back to the anglicism: "Someone's junk is someone else's treasure." Tons of chipped dishes, old film cameras, cheap romance novels, children's toys from the past 10 years, mismatched jewelry and rusty keys. I was in love. As I probably won't receive my first French paycheck (in euros!) until November, however, I settled with a French language mystery novel and a bit of French stationary--how could I resist, at ,50 euro centimes? :-)